Fish amok, Kampot pepper, and the market breakfast

Fish amok, a coconut curry steamed in banana leaf, is the national dish; lok lak beef and bai sach chrouk (pork and rice, the breakfast) are everyday staples. Kampot pepper, from the south coast, is the world's most prized, and the plantations welcome visitors. Markets serve breakfast from dawn: noodle soup, rice porridge, and iced coffee with condensed milk. Street food is safe when hot and busy; drink bottled or filtered water. Tipping a dollar or two means a lot.