Cartagena: the walled city's heat, the Getsemaní evenings, and the island boats

Cartagena's old town is at its best early and after 5 p.m.; the midday heat and humidity empty the streets. Getsemaní, just outside the walls, is where the city eats and dances at night, around Plaza de la Trinidad. The Rosario Islands and Playa Blanca are reached by boat from the docks; agree the price, the return time, and whether lunch is included before boarding, and skip the aggressive sellers at the Bocagrande beaches. Vendors in the old town expect a polite no.