Rome's early-morning Forum, and the churches with free masterpieces

The Colosseum and Forum sell timed tickets that vanish weeks ahead in summer; book on the official site, and take the first slot of the day. Many of Rome's greatest paintings cost nothing: the Caravaggios in San Luigi dei Francesi and Santa Maria del Popolo, the Michelangelo in San Pietro in Vincoli. Bring a coin for the light boxes that illuminate the chapels. Churches close for lunch, roughly noon to 3 or 4.