Dress for churches, and expect the cover charge

Major churches turn away visitors with bare shoulders or shorts above the knee; carry a light scarf in summer. At restaurants, the "coperto" (a per-person cover charge for bread and the table) is normal and shown on the menu; it's not a scam, and tipping on top is optional, a few euros for good service. Water is bottled unless you ask for tap, which many places won't serve. Ask for "il conto" to get the bill.