Budapest baths: Széchenyi for the scene, Rudas and Lukács for the locals

Széchenyi is the grand yellow bath with the outdoor pools and the chess players, and the one every visitor goes to; book the entry online and go early or on a weekday. Rudas has a 16th-century Ottoman dome and a rooftop pool over the Danube, with single-sex days on weekdays; Lukács is where Budapesters actually soak. Bring flip-flops and a towel or rent them, and a swim cap for the lap pools. Leave the phone in the locker.