Patagonia takes planning: Calafate, Chaltén, and the long buses

El Calafate is the base for the Perito Moreno glacier, where the boardwalks put you in front of the ice as it calves; El Chaltén, three hours north, is a hiking town with trails to Fitz Roy's base that need no guide or permit. Flights from Buenos Aires to Calafate sell out in January and February; book early. Bariloche's lakes are a separate region. Ushuaia is the gateway to Antarctica cruises, with last-minute deals in the port in season.