The late rhythm, the Spanish accent, and the football rule

Argentines run late: shops may close at midday in the provinces, bars fill after midnight, and clubs after 2 a.m. The Spanish is distinctive, with "vos" instead of "tú" and a "sh" sound for ll and y; locals are patient with learners. Football is close to religion; going to a Boca or River match is unforgettable, but tickets for visitors come through agencies with a markup, and asking people their club is a real conversation. Greet with one kiss on the cheek, men included.