Street food: watch the wok, and learn two words

The safest street stalls are the busiest ones with food cooked to order in front of you; skip anything sitting in the sun. "Mai phet" means not spicy, "phet nit noi" a little spicy; a Thai "medium" is hotter than most visitors expect. Bangkok's Chinatown (Yaowarat) at night and the morning markets anywhere are the best eating in the country. Eat with a spoon in your right hand and the fork to push, not to lift.