Smørrebrød rules, the hot dog stand, and the Noma legacy

Smørrebrød, the open-faced rye sandwich, has an order: herring first, then fish, then meat, then cheese, eaten with a knife and fork, never picked up. The pølsevogn hot dog stand is the street food, with the red sausage and crispy onions. Copenhagen's new Nordic restaurants are world-famous and booked months ahead; the same chefs' casual spots and the Reffen street-food market give a taste for far less. Lunch service at the famous places is cheaper than dinner.