Kraków: Auschwitz needs a reservation, and Kazimierz is for the evening

The Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial is free to enter but requires a reserved entry time, with guided visits strongly recommended; slots for summer go weeks ahead on the museum's official site. Give it a full day and treat it with the seriousness it deserves; there's no dress code, but behave as at a cemetery. Back in Kraków, the old Jewish district of Kazimierz has the city's best bars and restaurants, and Plac Nowy's hatches serve zapiekanki at midnight.