Marrakech medina: say no to "guides," and know the square's rules

In the medina, anyone who offers to show you the way, the tannery, or a "special market" expects payment and will steer you to a shop that pays commission. A firm, friendly "la, shukran" and walking on works; follow your own map, and when you're lost, ask a shopkeeper rather than a man in the street. On Jemaa el-Fna, photographing the snake charmers or monkey handlers triggers a demand for money; keep the camera down unless you've agreed a price.