Harissa with everything, brik, and the Sunday couscous

Tunisian food is the spiciest in North Africa: harissa comes with bread and olive oil at the start of every meal. Brik, a thin pastry with a runny egg and tuna inside, is the starter you'll order every day; lablabi, a chickpea soup with bread, is the winter breakfast. Couscous with fish is the coastal version, and Sunday couscous is a family rite. Fresh seafood in La Goulette and the Sfax markets. Wine and beer are available in licensed places; Celtia is the beer.