Rainy season, the Inca Trail closure, and the Lake Titicaca homestays

The Andes' rainy season runs November to March, and the Inca Trail closes every February for maintenance; the dry season (May to September) has clear skies and cold nights. Alternative treks (Salkantay, Lares) don't need the Inca Trail's permits, which sell out months ahead. On Lake Titicaca, homestays on Amantaní and Taquile islands, arranged in Puno, are a night with a family rather than a show; the floating Uros islands are a short, commercial stop. Bargaining in markets is gentle, not aggressive.