Distances on the map lie, and the sun burns through clouds

Roads are two-lane, winding, and slower than the map suggests; Auckland to Wellington is a nine-hour drive, and the South Island's distances are longer than they look. Driving is on the left, and the one-lane bridges have a give-way sign. The ozone hole makes the sun fierce even on cool, cloudy days; sunburn in 15 minutes is normal. Sandflies on the West Coast and in Fiordland are relentless; repellent is essential. Queenstown's prices are the country's highest; Wanaka or Te Anau are calmer bases.