Lima: ceviche at lunch, the menú, and the market food halls

Ceviche is a lunch dish, eaten when the fish is freshest; the cevicherías close by late afternoon, and the ones in Surquillo and the Mercado de Surquillo serve it for a fraction of Miraflores prices. The weekday "menú" (soup, main, drink) is the budget meal everywhere in Peru. Lomo saltado, ají de gallina, and anticuchos (beef-heart skewers from street carts in the evening) are the classics. Pisco sour is the drink; Lima's famous restaurants need bookings weeks ahead.