Two languages, and which one to try where

Flanders in the north speaks Dutch, Wallonia in the south speaks French, and Brussels is officially both but mostly French; a small German-speaking region sits in the east. Starting in the wrong language in Flanders can get a cool response; English is a safe neutral almost everywhere. Signs change language at the regional border, so Antwerp becomes Anvers and Mons becomes Bergen on road signs. Belgians are understated; "the surrealism is a national trait" is their own joke.