Ninh Binh over Ha Long, and the night train north

Ha Long Bay's beauty comes with hundreds of boats; Lan Ha Bay from Cát Bà island is the same scenery with fewer. Ninh Binh, two hours south of Hanoi, offers the same limestone karsts on land, seen by rowing boat at Tràng An or Tam Cốc and by bicycle through the rice fields; stay a night in Tam Cốc rather than day-tripping. The overnight train from Hanoi to Lào Cai leads to Sa Pa's terraced valleys; book a soft sleeper a few days ahead.