Amman: mansaf, the Hashem falafel, and the Rainbow Street evenings

Mansaf, lamb cooked in dried fermented yogurt over rice, is the national dish, eaten with the right hand at celebrations and served at traditional restaurants in Amman. Hashem, a downtown falafel-and-hummus institution open all hours, is the cheapest great meal in the country; Habibah's kunafa next door is dessert. Rainbow Street and Jabal Al Weibdeh are the evening neighborhoods with cafés and galleries. Alcohol is available in licensed restaurants and hotels. Tipping is 10%.